Concrete in a Family House: Which and Where

8 min read
Fresh concrete being poured into the timber formwork of a retaining wall on a sloping residential plot, with the steel reinforcement visible

Where does concrete actually go in a family house?

Even in a house the client calls a timber frame, there is more concrete than expected. The whole house stands on it, it carries the ground floor and often a ceiling, it holds the slope behind the house and forms the terrace, the driveway and the steps to the front door. Choosing the structural system is covered in the comparison of masonry, timber frame and CLT, and the type and build-up of foundations in a separate post on strip footings, slabs and foam glass. This post is about the material itself: which concrete belongs where, and why "concrete for the foundations" is not an adequate order.

A foundation slab sits in the ground, permanently damp, but it does not freeze and never sees salt. A ceiling slab lives in a dry interior, where strength and reinforcement decide. A garage driveway gets wet in winter, freezes and picks up de-icing salt from the car's wheels, which is the hardest combination a family house offers concrete. A retaining wall is a structure where the engineering and the water behind it matter more than the mix recipe.

How is concrete specified under STN EN 206?

In the drawings, concrete is not described by a supplier's brand or by the number of cement bags, but by the properties it has to achieve. In Slovakia the reference is STN EN 206+A2. The European concrete standard is currently moving to a multi-part edition (EN 206-1 and further parts), so the structural engineer confirms the edition that applies to a given project at the time of design. A client only needs to understand three items.

  • Compressive strength class. C25/30 means concrete with a characteristic strength of 25 MPa on a cylinder and 30 MPa on a cube, tested at 28 days.
  • Exposure class. The X letters describe what the concrete will be exposed to. X0 means no risk, XC carbonation of reinforced concrete, XD chlorides not from seawater, which here means mainly de-icing salt, XF freeze-thaw attack, and XA a chemically aggressive environment such as groundwater carrying sulphates. One element can have several classes at once, and the mix has to satisfy the strictest of them.
  • Consistence and maximum aggregate size. These decide how the concrete gets into the formwork and between the bars.

The exposure class has a practical consequence: it sets the lowest permitted strength, the highest water-cement ratio, the minimum cement content and the cover depth over the reinforcement. That is why the drawings state both, strength class together with exposure classes, and the batching plant designs the mix accordingly. If the delivery note does not list the exposure classes, nobody knows what actually arrived on site.

Why is ordinary concrete not enough outdoors?

Water in the pores of concrete expands when it freezes. Under repeated frost a saturated surface gradually scales off. De-icing salt makes it worse, and the chlorides also travel to the reinforcement, where they cause corrosion. That is why the standard distinguishes four XF classes. XF1 and XF3 mean moderate and high water saturation without de-icing agents, XF2 and XF4 the same with salt.

Freeze-thaw resistance in outdoor concrete comes mainly from air entrainment. An admixture creates evenly distributed tiny air voids in the mix, into which water can expand as it freezes without tearing the structure apart. A low water-cement ratio and a dense surface go with it. Air-entrained concrete has to be specified in the design, supplied by the plant and not ruined on site by adding water to the truck mixer.

The material is only half the answer. The other half is the detail: the fall of the terrace and the driveway, the drainage channel and the drip edge. Concrete that water runs off suffers far less from frost than concrete with a puddle standing on it.

House elementEnvironmentWhat decidesWhat to watch
Foundation slab or strip footingsDamp soil, no frost or saltStrength per structural design, groundwater chemistryRebar cover, never onto frozen ground
Ceiling slab and staircaseDry interiorStrength class, reinforcement, deflectionProps removed only when the engineer says so
Basement wall in the groundSoil moisture or water under pressureWatertightness, limited crack widthSealed construction joints
Retaining wallSoil behind, frost and rain in frontStructural design, frost-resistant copingDrainage behind the wall, movement joints
Terrace on gradeFrost, rain, standing waterAir entrainment, fall, dense surfacePouring in frost or heat without protection
Driveway, garage, entrance stepsFrost and de-icing saltStrictest XF and XD classes, rebar coverWater added on site, missing curing
Exposed wall or benchInterior or exteriorFormwork, consistent mixSample panel, surface protection

Which special concretes are worth it in a family house?

Concretes with an adjective sometimes solve a real problem, and sometimes are an expensive answer to a problem the house does not have.

Fibre-reinforced concrete for slabs

Fibre-reinforced concrete contains dispersed steel or polymer fibres. In sub-base slabs, garage floors and paved areas it limits shrinkage cracking and partly replaces the mesh. Steel fibres for structural use must comply with EN 14889-1, and the new generation of Eurocode 2 (EN 1992-1-1:2023) introduced in Annex L the first design rules for steel fibre reinforced concrete. For a load-bearing foundation or ceiling slab, though, whether fibres can replace conventional reinforcement is decided by the engineer's calculation, not by the salesperson.

Self-compacting concrete for exposed work

Self-compacting concrete (SCC) flows into the formwork under its own weight and needs no vibration. It pays off where the reinforcement is dense, the wall is thin, or exposed concrete is the final surface and every honeycomb from poor compaction would stay visible. It costs more and pushes harder on the formwork, so the formwork must be designed for it and sealed.

GRC for thin cladding

Glass fibre reinforced concrete (GRC) is a fine-grained mix reinforced with alkali-resistant glass fibres. It is used for thin facade panels, window sills and shaped elements that would come out thick and heavy in ordinary concrete. It is not structural, it is cladding. What decides is the fixing of the panels and the movement joints between them.

Geopolymer and low-carbon concrete

Geopolymer concrete replaces Portland cement with a binder made from slag or fly ash activated by an alkaline solution. The binder can have a considerably lower carbon footprint, but the European concrete standards are built on cement binders and do not yet offer a complete framework for alkali-activated concretes. Australia has published technical specification SA TS 199:2023, while in Europe it is assessed case by case. For a family house today, the more realistic option is low-carbon concrete made with blended cement containing slag or fly ash, which batching plants produce routinely. It gains early strength more slowly, so it needs longer curing and later striking of formwork. Why cement is where to save is explained in the post on the carbon footprint of materials.

Concrete typeWhat is differentWhere in a family houseWhen it pays off and what to watch
Ordinary concrete to STN EN 206Specified per designFoundations, ceilings, walls, ring beamsAlmost always, the specification decides
Air-entrained concreteAir voids protect against frostTerrace, driveway, steps, retaining wall copingEvery outdoor horizontal surface
Fibre-reinforced concreteDispersed fibresSub-base slabs, garage floor, paved areasAgainst cracks, replacing rebar is the engineer's call
Self-compacting concreteFlows without vibrationExposed and heavily reinforced wallsHigher formwork pressure and price
Glass fibre reinforced concrete (GRC)Thin panels with glass fibresFacade cladding, sills, shaped elementsConcrete look without the weight, fixing decides
Low-carbon and geopolymer concreteLess clinker or an alkali-activated binderFoundations and massive elementsBlended cement is proven, geopolymer non-structural for now

Retaining wall on a slope: gravity or cantilever?

On a sloping plot, the retaining wall is often the largest concrete element outside the house. How the house sits on the slope and where the cuts go is covered in the post on a house on a slope.

A gravity retaining wall resists earth pressure through its own weight. It is massive, made of plain concrete, stone or gabions. It is simple, but as the height grows it quickly consumes material and space. A cantilever retaining wall is a reinforced concrete stem fixed into a base slab in the shape of an L or an inverted T. The soil resting on the rear part of the slab holds it down, so a thinner stem is enough, but it needs precisely designed reinforcement and room to excavate behind the wall.

Why do I insist on a structural engineer even when the wall looks low? Earth pressure grows with depth and the total force on the wall grows roughly with the square of its height, so a wall twice as tall carries about four times the force. Then water joins in: a wall without drainage carries the pressure of saturated soil it was never designed for. Based on a geotechnical survey, the engineer checks the wall against overturning, sliding and bearing failure, and designs the drainage, the backfill and the movement joints. Depending on its height and location, the wall can be a separate structure with its own permitting under Act No. 25/2025 Coll. on Construction, which I check for every plot individually.

How is concrete cured, and which mistakes are most common?

Concrete does not harden by drying but by cement hydration, which needs water. The first days decide the quality of the surface. Concrete curing therefore means keeping fresh concrete moist and protecting it from sun, wind and frost: with sheeting, geotextile, sprinkling or a curing compound. The standard for the execution of concrete structures, EN 13670, works with curing classes chosen by the designer, and the curing period depends on the mix and the temperature. With blended cement and in cold weather it takes longer.

The mistakes I see repeatedly on site have one thing in common: they are cheap on the day of the pour and expensive a few years later.

  1. Water added to the truck mixer. The water-cement ratio rises, strength and frost resistance fall. A stiff mix is solved by a plasticiser at the plant, not a hose.
  2. Reinforcement without spacers. Mesh trodden to the bottom of the slab or a bar pressed against the formwork means rust stains on the terrace after a few winters.
  3. Insufficient compaction. Honeycombs and voids at the formwork weaken the element and stay forever on exposed concrete.
  4. Pouring in frost or heat without precautions. Young concrete that freezes loses strength permanently, concrete that overheats and dries out cracks.
  5. Early striking and loading. Ceiling props come out when the engineer allows it, not when the next site needs them.
  6. Unplanned construction joints. An interrupted pour creates a joint where nobody designed one, and in a basement also a path for water.

How do I handle concrete?

In the drawings I describe every concrete element by strength class and exposure classes, never just by the word "concrete". Outdoor horizontal surfaces get air-entrained concrete and a fall, retaining walls a structural design with drainage, exposed elements a sample panel and, where the geometry needs it, a self-compacting mix. I specify low-carbon concrete where the programme can tolerate slower strength gain. For now I treat geopolymer as a promising route for non-structural elements, not as a standard choice for foundations.

On site I check delivery notes against the design, the reinforcement before the pour and the curing after it. The most expensive concrete in a house is the one that was ordered correctly and ruined on site.

Frequently asked questions

Can I order concrete directly from the batching plant myself?
You can, but the order should come from the design: strength class, exposure classes, consistence and maximum aggregate size. Keep the delivery notes and compare them with the drawings, because they belong to the construction records and in a dispute they are the only proof of what was delivered.
Is a higher strength class always safer?
No. An unnecessarily high class means more cement, more heat of hydration, a greater tendency to shrinkage cracking and a higher carbon footprint. The right class is the one the engineer sets for the loads and the environment, not the highest one in the price list.
Can concrete be poured in winter?
Yes, but only with precautions: a heated mix, suitable admixtures, covering and thermal protection of the fresh concrete, and never onto frozen ground. If the contractor does not plan these measures, it is wiser to wait with the pour.
Why is the surface of my concrete terrace scaling?
Usually several causes coincide: a mix without air entrainment, water added on site, missing curing, water standing on the surface and salt. A new topping without removing the cause lasts only a few winters, so the fall and drainage have to be solved first.
Does a fibre-reinforced slab still need mesh?
It depends on what the slab does. For a sub-base slab under a floor, fibres are often enough, while for a load-bearing slab the structural calculation decides. Combining fibres with conventional reinforcement is common and is not a sign of poor design.
Can I build a low garden wall myself?
A low stone or gabion wall that just edges a flower bed, yes, and check with the municipality whether it has to be notified. If the wall holds a slope under the house, the driveway or the neighbour's plot, it belongs with a structural engineer and a professional contractor regardless of height.
Does exposed concrete feel cold indoors?
To the touch it is cooler than timber, because it conducts heat well. Thermal comfort in the house, however, is set by the envelope and the heating, not by the wall surface. A massive concrete wall indoors also helps even out temperature, especially in summer.

Tags

  • concrete
  • retaining-wall
  • construction
  • durability